1982 Datsun Cherry (E10/F10/F11/N10)

The Cherry's thin steel and minimal factory rustproofing proved no match for UK winters. Rot starts in the sills, front and rear wheel arches, floor pans and strut-top seams and spreads inside box sections, so a car that looks straight outside can fail the MOT on structure. With reproduction panels scarce, extensive welding is often the only fix and frequently costs more than the car is worth.

Symptoms: Bubbling paint on arch edges and outer sills, Soft floor pans or holes in the sill boxes...

Est. repair cost: £600-£2,000

Early Cherry braking is modest by modern standards and period owners describe the anchors as weak: the pedal feels spongy and the car needs long, progressive stops. Corroded wheel cylinders, perished flexible hoses and air in the hydraulic circuit make it worse, and after decades of UK salt the front caliper pistons and drum hardware can bind or seize, causing uneven braking, pulling and MOT advisories. Fresh brake fluid, new hoses and overhauled calipers or wheel cylinders transform the pedal, but original master cylinders and drums are becoming scarce on these high-volume 1970s UK sellers.

Symptoms: Spongy or long-travel brake pedal, Brakes feel weak and require heavy pedal pressure...

Est. repair cost: £120–£350

Early UK Cherries were small, tall and narrow, so adult rear passengers sit with their knees against the front seatbacks, and on the original 100A the front passenger seat is fixed in place and cannot slide. This is a design limitation rather than a mechanical fault, but it materially affects everyday practicality and should be checked before buying a Cherry as a family or shared car.

Symptoms: Rear passengers' knees touching the front seatbacks, Front passenger seat cannot be slid forward or back (100A)

Est. repair cost: £0