IsItAGoodCar
Reliability Guide

Common Problems with the
1959 Triumph Herald

Introduction of the original Herald saloon and coupe, featuring a 948cc overhead-valve four-cylinder engine, front drum brakes, swing-axle rear suspension, and distinctive tailfins.

What changed for 1959

  • •Launch of Michelotti-styled saloon and coupe on separate double-backbone chassis
  • •Front clamshell bonnet hinged forward for complete engine access; turning circle of 25 feet

Common MOT watch-outs

  • !Perforated chassis outriggers and corroded front floorpan corners
  • !Excessive play in front lower brass trunnions and track rod ends
4
Known Issues
3
Serious
1
Moderate
0
Minor

All Known Issues

Front suspension brass trunnion seizure and kingpin fracture

SeriousSuspension & Chassis

Like its Spitfire sibling, the Herald uses brass trunnions at the base of the front vertical links. Triumph engineers specified regular oiling with EP90 hypoid gear oil. Owners and workshops frequently mistook the nipples for grease points; heavy chassis grease cakes and solidifies inside the trunnion threads, preventing lubrication and accelerating thread wear until the vertical link snaps while cornering.

Est. Repair Cost: £180–£400
Warning Signs:

Stiff, resistant steering feel that fails to self-centre smoothly after navigating corners, Squeaking and groaning sounds from front wheel arches over speed humps and potholes, Excessive front wheel play and leaning road wheel when weight is removed from the suspension

What to Inspect:
  • Examine trunnion nipples for dried grey or yellow grease instead of fluid gear oil
  • Raise front wheels off the ground and test vertical link assembly for rocking play with hands at 12 and 6 o'clock
  • Inspect maintenance documentation for routine 6,000-mile EP90 oil top-ups
  • Check vertical link threads for metal swarf or galling during suspension inspection
Verified by IsItAGoodCar Research TeamUpdated

Chassis outrigger corrosion and body tub sagging

SeriousBodywork & Rust

The Herald's steel double-backbone chassis extends outriggers sideways to mount the sills and passenger tub. Mud and salt flung from the wheels collect inside the hollow outriggers, rusting them out from within. When the outriggers collapse, the body tub loses structural support, causing doors to drop on their latches, sills to rot, and panels to rub.

Est. Repair Cost: £600–£2,000
Warning Signs:

Uneven door panel gaps that pinch tight at the upper shut line or catch on the striker plate, Severe body sag and scuttle shudder over road imperfections, Crumbly iron-oxide holes in outriggers directly behind the front wheels and ahead of rear arches, Doors popping open during cornering (especially on convertibles with worn door locating pegs)

What to Inspect:
  • Get underneath the vehicle with an inspection lamp and thoroughly hammer-tap all four chassis outriggers
  • Check that chassis legs remain bolted to the body via factory rubber pads, not welded solid to bodge an MOT
  • Verify that door apertures are square and doors open and close cleanly without lifting
  • Inspect the bonnet D-plates, front steel valance and rear differential crossmember for corrosion
Verified by IsItAGoodCar Research TeamUpdated

Crankshaft thrust washer wear and end-float damage

SeriousEngine

Standard-Triumph four-cylinder engines (948cc, 1147cc, and 1296cc) incorporate two semicircular thrust washers flanking the centre main bearing. Prolonged driving with an engaged clutch or high mileage wears away the soft thrust bearing metal. If neglected, the washer drops out of its groove into the oil sump, allowing the crankshaft to grind directly against the engine block casting.

Est. Repair Cost: £450–£1,400
Warning Signs:

Front crankshaft pulley visibly sliding forward when an assistant depresses the clutch pedal, Vague clutch disengagement feel or clutch dragging when selecting first gear at a standstill, Metallic tapping noises from the lower crankcase when revving the engine

What to Inspect:
  • Position a dial gauge or pry bar gently against the front crank pulley to test for axial end float
  • Have an assistant step on the clutch pedal while observing front pulley movement under the bonnet
  • Inspect engine oil during a service for copper or bronze sheen indicating thrust washer degradation
  • Listen for rumbling lower-end noises and inspect oil pressure at warm idle
Verified by IsItAGoodCar Research TeamUpdated

Gearbox layshaft needle-roller bearing wear and whining

ModerateGearbox & Transmission

The four-speed manual transmission fitted across the Herald range uses small needle-roller bearings supporting the layshaft cluster. With age, high mileage and degraded gear oil, these bearings pit and wear down. The worn bearings produce a loud whining noise in all indirect gears (1st, 2nd, and 3rd) and a rumbling sound at idle in neutral that disappears when the clutch pedal is pressed.

Est. Repair Cost: £350–£850
Warning Signs:

Distinct mechanical rumbling noise at idle with transmission in neutral that vanishes when dipping the clutch, Loud whining noise that intensifies under acceleration through 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears, Difficulty engaging 2nd gear smoothly due to accompanying brass synchro-ring wear

What to Inspect:
  • Start the engine in neutral and listen for gearbox chatter; dip the clutch pedal to confirm if the rattle silences
  • Test-drive through all four gears to check for loud gear whine under load and overrun
  • Check gearbox oil level and inspect drained fluid for brass specks or fine iron glitter
  • Ensure the gear lever does not jump out of gear on sudden throttle overrun
Verified by IsItAGoodCar Research TeamUpdated

Buying Tips for 1959 Triumph Herald

  • Check for severe tailfin seam corrosion and perished rubber seals around rear quarterlights
  • Test 948cc engine for excessive crankcase breather fumes and low compression
1960–1966
Check a 1959 Triumph Herald by Registration